Taking the steps towards this type of repair technique. I Recieved this notice.
Fingers crossed. 
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They should work just fine for you, and if I’m any judge of delivery status screens by the look of that one you’ll have 30 days to decide if they will.
I don’t know if you’ve had a chance to look a little further into their usefulness but you do still have the ability to introduce a drop or two of water to the dovetail and create steam in much more controlled manner. I can’t recall ever seeing Ted do this in one of his videos but he has mentioned it several times.
Good luck!
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The were less than $10 usd each I almost considered building my own with a couple of $1.50 really poor quality Harbor frieght soldering irons and a couple of long copper rods i have laying around. But then decided, the project is not tryimg to build a crappy tool that still may need something. The project is the project and I just want to get on with it. 
I have not even look since I ordered the stuff i need. Reserving brain power to taskes at hand now. But I will add that nugget of info to the vault of valuble info, to be handy when I need it.
Thanks richard.
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I thought I would do a little update on this project.
Unfortunately I got a bit stalled, I ordered the foam cutters but they didnt come with the DC power supplies. Lol.
I do have a electronics power supply maybe I will just rig something up for the job.
Good news is, I did run across another sweet old Japanese made acoustic that is a Martin D-18 body copy. I have found a little info on them. These Aspens were part of the lawsuits for being copys of there stuff. I have been reading these old ones made in Japan are supposed to be very nice sounding. This does need some work of course.
Top Sitka Spruce solid
Sides and backs Mahogany
Neck Mahogany
Fingerboard Rosewood
I got the neck off this one since its a bolt on. i Have already started cleaning it up and getting patches ready. This one is the wrong size for me but its still something to mess with for the time being.
Cleaning up the fingerboard. Lord it is grimy as all heck.
I now have more broken and nonfunctional guitars than I do working ones. Good thing I get them really really cheap.
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I had a little time friday night and I did a little work on the neck removal process for my Yamaha. I finally remembered to order a fret removal tool. It arrived and it was very easy to use. I suppose one could mess it up if not being carful, but I scored under the fret metal just abover the wood and was cautious to get right under the edge. I worked it gently amd it came right out. I didnt even heat it up, which is also something that can be done if it proves to be difficult.
You can see the final drill holes including the small miss holes. They will will be filled with hard wood and will not be visible once fret is back in place and repair wont be visible (I hope).
Scored all the edges
I heated up the freatboard that are on the body with a regular clothes iron and loosened it with a couple of super thin putty knives. That was a test of patience.
This is the stuff I used for the holes. The guitar strings are some crappy ones I had. I just used them as a guide wire to probe for the space between the dovetail and body after drilling the small hole.
With the heating sticks inserted after final holes are drilled.
So these heat sticks did not come with a power supply, so I will need to rig up a supply for both of them. Also I still need to build a jig to help push the neck heel out of the pocket.
Once I have these 2 little bumps figured out I will charge on with this project. Its been such a busy month unfortunately most down time i have has been for practice of the guitar and not placing with broken ones. 
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If you don’t see what you need for the heater supply and want to make your own, I found some interesting stuff while shopping for my tube amp parts. There are a lot of options.
I think it would be about the same cost as a couple of wall warts, so those would be easiest if you can find the voltage, current, and connector you need.
let me know if you have an interest in making your own.
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@sequences
I have large a plastic storage bin of wall warts, I hope I can find a couple in there, if not I will certainly ask you for help in modifications or a build.
I do have a question.
Stamped into the plastic is 30 watts so I am guessing that is the max. I read that most of these use 12 volts and 5 amps. Obviously DC.
Could I hook it up and then Just dial it in with a bench top power supply, since its a short run and a one time deal?
Watts = Voltage * Amperage
I am seeing two on amazon that look like yours rated at 6V and 7.5V. If this is a resistive heater (my guess), then the V you apply will account for the watts it dissipates.
Watts = V^2 / R for a resistive load. That means for every volt you add, the watts goes up exponentially, so with your bench supply, start low and see what you get. I’d start pretty low given what I see, probably 5V and see what current I get. If your bench supply measures current, you’ll be able to calculate power easily. If not, then if you have a meter that can measure up to maybe 5A of current, you should be able to use that to then calculate the power. I’d keep the power dissipated under about 110% of the rating on the heater. A lot lower than 100% should be fine if that is best for the guitar and does the job you need.
hey nice This second one is almost identical to the one I ordered they were on sale and I order 2 but they only sent the sticks no power supply. Maybe that’s why they were on sale?
When I contacted them asking for power supply they just gave me my money back. I said I didnt want the money I wanted the PS. They said naw, here is your money, keep the sticks and I didnt hear anything from them again. I was like dang Ok.
My PS is ok
It works as a starter unit. I also have a couple of good meters I can hook up for back up. It never hurts to have a back up mesurments.
Thanks for the help Michael. I do have most of the parts for the Jig and will try and get that built if the new unit of BLIM does not crush me too much this week. 
If I can get that done then it will be go time. 
that calculates Watts for you. you can be lazy.
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