A board suitable for total noobs like me!
You might not have a camera person following you round, but OMG, those are insane waves, they look 2.5x your height? The power behind a wave like that would be terrifying. You must be an insanely good surfer to tackle waves like that.
Totally agreed, and another factor is how much practice you get, like anything. I’m interested in surfing but hardly ever do it, if I surfed as much as I played guitar I would be OK at it by now