Floyd Rose tuning

What an absolute nightmare! New guitar that I’m looking at for a student. Ibanez RG470PB. She changed the strings from 9 to 10 and cannot re-tune it without the bridge coming all the way up. So I offered to help. I’ve watched a dozen ā€˜do this trick’ videos and found Floyd Rose’s own instructions. Nothing seems to work, including the blocking of the trem whilst doing the initial tuning. What am I missing? No matter how I set the fine tuners before starting, how much I tighten or release the trem claw screws, once the strings are close, there’s not enough adjustment potential to get the thing in tune. The bridge always ends up rising. The guitar is 3 months old, so the trem springs cannot be stretched out already and the new strings have had a good stretch themselves. I’ve never worked with a FR before - and probably won’t again! - but seriously, how hard can it be? Talk me though it like I’m 5 :slight_smile:

It’s probably a problem of springs adjustment. Watch this video, maybe it helps…

1 Like

Thanks @JackPK I tried again. Broke two strings and the same thing happens - the bridge always ends up coming up, and tightening the claw screws even as far as they go does not compensate. I’ve tried loosening these as far as they go before starting, but the result is the same. I swear I’ve done everything the videos are telling me too, but nothing even comes close to getting this axe in tune :face_with_spiral_eyes:

I can’t help you with the FR, sorry. But I’m curious as to why you are breaking strings. In my experience a new string only breaks if it is tuned well beyond its in-tune tension.

It was when I tried to compensate by loosening the trem claw screws. A ā€˜trick’ from another video. Just snapped the high E and the G string together at the tuning pegs. Go figure - I’ve never had that happen in changing thousands of strings …

This is the way :slight_smile: https://youtu.be/tPUS9MgCB4g?si=Jaw3eyh2hEKMACFJ

If you watch the video, you see the guy uses a purpose-made block for the trem. I used a pack of playing cards, sliding extras in until it was a perfect fit. Worked like a charm.

I have recently been tossing up whether to buy an interesting Strat that I saw advertised. Always been a Tele player, but was curious to try out a Strat. Then I started finding out about all the issues with the trem (I have zero interest in using tremolo). I realise you can block it off in various ways, but the whole messy business has convinced me that a tele is really the instrument for me.

1 Like

I’ve set up a Floyd Rose many times, so I can offer some hints that will work. Once you’ve done it a few times you’ll realize it’s not that difficult (not meaning to sound condescending here).

Remember; any floating bridge is a matter of achieving balance - the pull of the springs in the back of the guitar needs to match (exactly) the pull of the strings. You put on heavier strings, they pull harder, the bridge tilts up. As you have observed… .and it makes sense, right?

So, from this alone you know that you’ll have to tighten the claw screws in the back of the guitar, when switching from 9 to 10s. If the claw cannot get any tighter, then you need to install another spring (with 10s I would use at least 3, and probably 4 springs).

Now, to make it easy to set the balance - do this. You want to initially over tighten the springs, so the bridge is pulled back. Don’t need a crazy amount of pull, but start where it’s definitely too much. Then block off the bridge so it sits parallel to the body of the guitar. If there is a cavity in the guitar body, use something like a business card, or cardboard from a pack of strings… just make sure that despite the bridge being pulled back, it’ll be stopped by this material and sit in the correct (approximately) parallel position.

Now you’ve effectively converted the guitar to a ā€œtemporary fixed bridgeā€ guitar.

Put on the strings, tune up. This should be as easy as any hard-tail guitar… because the bridge is not moving! If, for some reason, it starts lifting… then you’ve not started out with enough pull from the springs.

Once the guitar is in tune, the strings stretched in, and NOT locked at the nut… start releasing tension from the claws slowly… until the bridge lifts ever so slightly! Just enough that you can pull out the business card, because the bridge is no longer pressing hard against it.

Now the whole system in correctly in balance, and from now on it’ll be easy to change strings one at a time… to the same string gauge.

Try it - seriously, this method cannot fail :slight_smile:

2 Likes

Thanks @Kasper That makes sense now that Ive played around with the FR a bit. All the same, I’d rather not do it again anytime soon :wink:

1 Like

It’s super common around here to see people dismiss the trem bar or just block it off right away.

I don’t think that’s going to change anytime soon, but I’m still making it my life mission to stand up for the trem bar :slightly_smiling_face:

It’s one of the most expressive tools on the guitar. To me, dismissing it is like dismissing bends or finger vibrato. I’d be really hesitant to play a live gig without a bar — I use it all the time.

I just wish more people would experiment with it and be a little less afraid of it.