Guitar Kit Build - SSS Leo Jaymz

Introduction

I received a gift of an S-style guitar kit. This is log of building this kit. Building a guitar is a first and have seldom done any wood working. For me, the electronics side will be the familiar part.
This is done informally, and I hope you can read past the typos! :slight_smile:

The body is in acceptable condition. The body is made of four pieces with the wood grain unmatched. A stained or clear body would not look very good, so a solid black is going to be my goal. The routing of the cavity shapes is poorly done. These will need a bit of cleanup. I have some small concern that the neck bed is not very cleanly cut. This could impact sustain and tuning stability. I do not have the proper tools to correct this, so it will be built as it was shipped to me. Kit was around $80 just before Christmas 2024.

The electronics are mostly assembled. The pieces that need assembly have connectors already soldered to them. The solder is poorly done, so I will improve on that in a few places. Some common good practices were not followed. These are likely low impact, but I have been chasing noise my whole career, and I will make corrections so the noise is liklely to creep in.

I took the time to measure much of the kit before starting to build anything.

Elecrtrical:

pots are 250k Ohms
Tone caps are 47nf, one on mid and one on neck pickups

Coil inductance is really low comapred to my other guitars – all are under 1H. I did check to make sure I had the pots set properly. My single-core guitar runs about 3x this inductance. The magnets appear to be not much more than a flexible fridge magnet.

The wiring does not have the bridge coil connected to the tone. This seems odd to me. The switch seems to connect in a way so the bridge does use the tone control, but this will remove the tone from position 3. Maybe I need to short the switch position 1 and 2 lugs to make it work – will think it thru after assembly and I see if it needs this (pretty sure it does need it and I think I have it thought thru properly).

Neck:

Parameter Measurement
Wood Maple
Fret Size Medium Jumbo – frets about 43 mils above fretboard
Width at Fret 1 1.667 in / 42.3 mm
Width at Fret 12 2.065 in / 52.4 mm
Depth at Fret 1 0.866 in / 22.0 mm
Depth at Fret 12 0.918 in / 23.3 mm
Fretboard Radius 10 in / 25.4 cm

Nut slot heights (mils):

String Nut Height Expected Fret 1 Action Height
1 0.105 0.062
2 0.110 0.067
3 0.115 0.072
4 0.115 0.072
5 0.105 0.062
6 0.095 0.052

Some frets are a little high when checked with a fret rocker. It is much better than I expected for this caliber of kit. Many of the high spots may be corrected with a soft mallet. The slots are hard to measure because it is hard to see the measuring mark. If my measurements are accurate, then the slot will need a little adjustment so all the slots are more uniformly above the fretboard. This is really going to be measured against the frets once the assembly is done, but fret heights are varying about 7 mils. Add the 20 mils variance in the slot and we have a lot of difference across fret 1. It will be interesting to see how poorly I measured this.
Nut slot files are very expensive and not something to go buy unless building becomes a regular thing.

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Whats does the pocket look like? Hard to see the from the photo. You would be suprised what a small square flat thick piece of hard wood and a pack of quality sand paper will do. Not only will you have a sore arm and a good work out, you can also generate a sizeable amount of sawdust and smooth out some really bad cuts and rough stuff. Just a thought looks like a really cool project. I am stoked you decided to go for it. Not much action in this part of the site it seems not a single person looked at my sss upgrade thread that I finished last night since the first part. :man_shrugging:t3:, maybe its an ugly guitar with bad sound.
:rofl:

I am sure there will be people cheaking your out for sure, i must be doing something wrong with my thread. Shout out if questions about the wood part or rhe finishing.

Whoot whoot.

:muscle:t3:

Hi Michael
HNBGK :partying_face: :sunglasses: :smile:

Cool and I wish you a lot of fun while building and you will look and play with the result with due pride :smiley: :sunglasses:

Greetings

I looked :slight_smile: I even watched the videos. It is what influenced me to start this!

“SHOUT!” I do not know what I am doing with paint. I’ll do a pre and post part here. If you are watching this, there will be a chance to give advice before I do something stupid.

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HNBGK? happy new build guitar kit?

I am also designing a low power tube amp. I feel like it would be a lot of fun to have those come together about the same time. There are good challenges that are quite new to me with designing a guitar amp. Managing the distortion and frequency response are quite different than I needed to do all of my career. I have the electrical design done, but have been unsure how to do the metal work without buying expensive tools. Also the traditional board used to solder the parts together is more expensive than I spent on the parts! I think it will look home-built unfortunately.

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:smile:
You never get to guess again :sunglasses:

Pfff…an tube amp :grimacing: …I’d like to build a guitar someday…an amplifier is really over my head and I’m afraid I’ll burn the house down :upside_down_face:…

I’ll follow you and see how it turns out, have fun :smiley:

Greetings

Is this because of total failure or impressive prowess in guessing the translation and putting English words to it? :rofl:

I am sure you will manage Michael if I lived closer I would have sent you some files mate :+1: and I didn’t know Jason had built anything Sorry Jason I will find it and check it out I am still tired from the long weekend :sleeping:

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Ha ha … I already thought it was a Dutch thing, what I said… that’s what we say when you get/guess it right the first time (literally translated: you are not allowd ever guess again)

Greetings

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I was having a moment when I wrote that I think, a WB moment, You can use your imagination to what that stands for. Its my wifes term, she learned it when she was in Search and Rescue haha. I am thrilled that something I did here influenced you especially when it does not involve ear plugs. :grin: That really makes me feel good has made my morning.

Ok we can do this. It really is not difficult the name of the game is Prep. Prep Prep

You need to decided exactly what you want want to do. There are a number of options.
Shellacs, Oils, polyurethanes. Lots to consider also. How meticulous you will be inbetween coats on your sanding. Safety also right? Are you doing it in your kitchen or do you have a nice ventilated shop. Whats the weather? Will it be able to cure properly? You obviously are not a teen doing it the bathroom so you have options.

Very cool. Have you tried to build any pedals yet. Might be worth starting there just for some circuits familiarity, or did you already buy the parts.

You can make a poor man’s sheet metal bender at home pretty easy. A rubber mallet, a good sturdy piece of wood hard wood is best with a solid edge, and a bunch of clamps is all you really need. haha even a heavy door could work :roll_eyes: just dont let you wife catch you. You just have to take your time. Expensive tools are fun but not always needed.

So many cool projects. Let me know when you are going to get started on the guitar body.

no need. I can guess with outstanding accuracy (whiney baby). I have my certificate from Rogier:


I already chose and started on the neck. That part is coming to this thread soon. This work stuff is getting in the way of proper fun.
The work is in the garage. Weather is the same as yours. :wink: cold-ish and dry. The Boiled linseed application is not drying very fast. I may want to wait for a couple weeks on the body until is warms up again.

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Thanks Hec. A bit of a shipping fee… Those things are something to borrow if possible! A nice set costs more than the guitar kit!

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Close enough for a Family show. :innocent:

That was exactly what I was worried about.

Hey just how far in south Phoenix are you? Nevwr mind. I shall just DM you sometime today.

Hey Jason,

Mentioned WB to my wife & she was immediately like, That’s easy! WB = Wussy Boy!

Apparently, it’s this “semi-secret” abbreviation that the women here use… like lol or ttyl etc.
:smile:
Tod

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Neck preperation

The fret sprout is pretty low, but most of it is from fret1 to fret 4 on the bottom side. There are some sharp edges on most of the frets, but not so sharp they will tear your hand up.

Step 1 – face the frets across the length of the neck so there are no sprouted fret ends
Step 2 – level any of the extra high frets
Step 3 – individually knock off the edges of each fret on both top and bottom of the neck
Step 4 – lightly roll the fretboard edge for a very smooth feel
Step 5 – polish the fret tops and ends
Step 6 – use the template to shape the headstock
Step 7 – Sand to prep for boiled linseed oil

Facing of the fret ends was done with a tool I bought that helps maintain a constant angle as you run it up and down the length of the fretboard. I see a handful of these on Amazon and chose this one because the ad for it was a real picture, not a computer rendering and it had two different file tooth structures.

One handy advantage of this tool is that I could also put some finer grit tools into the block that are from my knife sharpening kit. These give me the chance to polish the edges and remove some of the tooling marks that the file leaves.

The smoothing of the fret ends went well, the tool being a good purchase. Easy to use and no real risk of doing anything wrong… right?
Of course, I did find a way. I filed everything flush and cleaned up the ends in maybe 1 hour’s work. I left the neck to sit in the garage for two days and checked the ends again. Yep, a little more fret sprout. Not unexpected and not bad. I just needed to touch it up a tiny bit before continuing.

I installed the lighter grit bar from my knife tool and did a couple test passes. Odd, there was a lot of grinding I didn’t expect. I saw that I had gouged a nice trough into the one side of the frets! I had forgotten to remove the original file and it was in the vertical position and sitting on the frets! I was not terribly happy. I knew I would need to work this mistake down until the mistake was nearly gone or it would cause hanging or even string breaks when bending. Another three hours or so later, I had the frets pretty well cleaned up and the ends touched back to feeling smooth. You can see the remains of the marks in the image about where string 2 would be running.

The cleanup was with a fret beveling file I bought a couple years ago. The sides are angled to help put a crown on the frets as you take material off to level them or clean up a stupid mistake. I had to do this on every fret, so while I was at it, I also tried to level as much as I thought necessary.

The leveling file leaves pretty heavy scratches, so it needs to be polished with increasing fineness until there is a good polish on the frets.

The ends can still have a slight catch to them when you run your hand over them. I wanted to clean this very well and also spent time rounding the ends. This is much easier on this neck compared to the necks that have a binding I don’t want to put file marks in. These marks come right out and won’t show once I oil this.

One trick to doing this was to use a file that I removed the teeth from on one edge. This let me get into the fret without taking off wood. It just took a few moments on the belt sander to do this. The file was one of a super-cheap set I got for this purpose. I think the whole set was around $5.

Headstock

Next was to shape the headstock. I decided to just go with the traditional Fender shape that the kit instructions offered a template for. They said it was a 1:1 template, but it did not line up at all! It was about 8% too small in general, and had too much length at the neck. I measured, calculated the percentage to alter it by, and then reprinted a scanned image of it with the right size. This looked good, but the cut on the bottom was never going to sit properly. I decided to just do my own. I used the spool of solder on my benchtop to trace the round part and used the template to trace in the bottom flat portion.

I had snapped my thin scrolling blade a while back, so I needed to cut the shape out in somewhat straight parts then round it off with the belt sander and manually. I was having some trouble getting into the tight bend, and found that my Dremel had a good sanding bit just the right diameter. That was used to finish off the neck shape.

Last step here was to sand and then tape off the fretboard wood so it didn’t see any of the linseed oil. I don’t want to have a hard finish on the fretboard. I will put the usual lemon oil there.

More to follow…

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They all mean the same thing, right? My wife straight up calls me a Whiney Bitznich if I complain. But she actually uses the female dogword. She does notnhold back, cause she is a Nevada High desert girl. Her grandmother worked a the Bucket of Blood Saloon. Dont get me wrong, she is a sweet heart, she had to be tough to be on the SARs crews and hot shot teams, so yep that my bad A little lady. :heart_on_fire:

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Cool sharpening block. Its nice not to be the only one who uses knife sharpening tools to cut down sharp frets.

Oh no.

Those are good, the Stew Mac stuff is made with realy good steel, far better than the crap from amazon, buy once cry once.

That looks really good. Nice :metal:t3:

That was a great update. Killer job.

Hey Michael!

This looks like a fun & more or less inexpensive way to add to your guitar collection!
I’m guessing from the tools you have that you’ve been messing a bit with becoming your own guitar tech for a while, right?
As building my own guitars is a post-retirement dream, I follow these threads pretty closely… really fascinating to watch my fellow Justinites becoming home-grown luthiers!!! :grin:
Hope this is lots of fun & a rewarding end result for you!

Tod

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I bought the simple tools within about 3-4 months of starting to learn to play. I bought the fret edge block recently just for this build. I have never had my strings changed by someone else. I see some of them work and they do not treat the guitar carefully enough, letting strings slap against the finish or letting the wound strings saw against something when removing or stringing them.

Setup and string change work is pretty straight forward so far. For me, this feels like doing an oil change on your car - if you like doing it, then save the money and do it yourself. It is nowhere near as messy! :slight_smile:

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Neck Finish

I taped the neck and applied boiled linseed oil with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. This is supposed to give me a non-shiny finish that I expect to work well with sweaty hands in the annoying Arizona heat.

The neck took days to dry. It was in very dry weather, but temperatures from 35F to 60F in my garage (1.5 to 15.5C). I noticed that it looked like the linseed had seeped under the tape in a couple places, and an area I had been sloppy about letting the linseed touch the tape, it wicked onto the fretboard between the nut and first fret. I decided to see if I could take off the tape and clean it all up before the linseed hardened.

What I found was the linseed oil (or maybe the fake mineral spirits) softened the sticky part of the tape into goo and let the finish seep into more places I didn’t want it. At least I discovered the problem before the linseed dried. I was able to use a cotton swab and clean off linseed oil where it had seeped onto the fretboard. It came out pretty clean after de-gooing the taped areas.

When I was cleaning off the neck, I used a cotton towel to do some scrubbing. The towel caught on a flaw in the nut and pulled the string 3 edge of the nut out a bit. I later was able to just flick this off with a fingernail. Lousy plastic nuts… Now I need to buy a new one, and I really didn’t want to spend a lot of money for slot files I may never use again.

I wound up purchasing a bovine bone nut from MusicLily (via Amazon). There were 10 in the pack, so I should have more than enough to account for mistakes in re-sizing it.
The new nut is almost double the thickness. I made the purchase based on the slot cuts, and those should be pretty good since they have the same spacing. There may need to be some slot adjustment for the crowning on the fretboard. I know I will need to shorten the new nut but hope I won’t need to cut string slots independently. I did buy a budget nut slot file set. It was $5 and had poor reviews for ability to cut harder nut materials. These both should arrive in one day.

Removing the original nut was not too bad. I found a punch that was just small enough to avoid the wood and cover most of the edge of the nut. Hit it a few times with a hammer and it slid right out. They put way too much glue on it. I was happy that the bulk of the glue stayed with the nut, so cleaning up the neck side was very easy and I didn’t need to risk rounding it or some other damage that might make the nut sit without good contact.


I intend to apply an additional linseed coat. This will be after the weather warms a bit and after applying a coat of lemon oil to the fretboard portion of the neck. I hope the lemon oil will help protect against the tape failing, and I can wipe it off before it sets.


The neck feels great. It is silky and should not feel sticky even if I have sweaty hands in warm weather. I do feel a tiny bit of difference between the neck wood and fretboard wood. I may need to sand a bit more on that joint in a few locations.

I got the bone nuts in the mail and needed to shave one a little thinner. It was not as tall as I may need, but measuring the bottom of the string is difficult without a tight string there. I think it is ok, giving me 15 to 30 mils of height above the fret. The old one was too high as I mentioned in my initial measurement section. I am anxious to get this painted so I can see how this really is. I do not think I will assemble (with screws) until it is painted because I have low confidence the screws will hold out under multiple assembly and disassembly.

One other thing I am a little concerned about is the rigidity of the new nut. It sits a little high on one side. I tried to fill it in with glue, but if sustain is bad, I’ll need to find a taller nut and the cut it more custom to fit in the existing area.