Replacing hardware on a Yamaha Pacifica

Not all the PUP details include audio examples so you can here what you are getting yourself into and they provide wiring diagrams. I was doing something a little different so had a bespoke diagram created by these folk guitarelectronics.com

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:clap: :clap: :clap:

You rock, good sir. Thank you for that piece of information.

I just listened to some soundbites for the metal machine hbā€™sā€¦ Oh myā€¦
The process of choosing will be fun. Theyā€™re pretty cheap too, so if it should happen that i get bored of them later on, itā€™s not all that bad to switch them.

Fun fun fun!!!

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Oh and for simple/standard configurations Iron Gear provide their own diagrams

Thatā€™s for sure. I am pondering P90s as none of my stable wears them and the 2 Washburns have the same pups, so one needs a character overhaul. But this time as I wonā€™t need new pots and caps Iā€™ll use a solderless connection and the existing wiring harness. Something to think of, if you plan to change or want some quick hot swaps. I think @Mari63 used some type of crimped connectors on her handmade Tele.

:sunglasses:

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Ah, iā€™ve been listening to soundbites and reviews of P90ā€™s.
They donā€™t do it for me iā€™m afraid. I find them to be a bit on the bright side, for me.
But thatā€™s individual preference.
But a solderless connection, how that does work?

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A solderless connection is pretty simple. The diy kit I bought was a solderless kit, so just had wire connectors. One of the ends came out so I went to a hardware store and there were a couple of choices for connecting wires without soldering. They would have worked fine but I ended up switching the pickups, which a friend helped me with, and he brought his soldering gun. He thought that was simpler than the connectors, and if you know how to solder I would agree.

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Iā€™m with you there Mari, that was the first soldering I had done in my life on the Affinity Pimp and it resembled a lava flow. :rofl: Did you just use those crimped type connectors, if I recall ?
May try something on this on the HB32 when I get round to it. :sunglasses:

image

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I hesitated to comment here as Iā€™m in the US and canā€™t speak to the overseas shipping details for GFS Guitar Pickups. This may be helpful to someone else in the US? I have been totally won over by the quality and value of their pickups and the Kwikplug system. I wish I had found out about these sooner.

Learn to solder folks, itā€™s not that hard, and a very good skill to have if you are going to do any work in your guitarā€™s guts. Itā€™s not that tough, and there are plenty of tutorials out there.

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Agreed. This is a skill that comes in very handy from time to time.

Toby, I planned to use the pre-made connectors that came with the diy kit, red connectors in photo just plug into each other, but I ended up using different pickups and so soldered all the wires (you canā€™t just take these ends off and put them on other wires).

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Small update: the adhesive film, apparantly called ā€œfrisketfilmā€ is being delivered today. This will allow me to seal of parts of the body i want in a different color, or to add ā€œsomethingā€. What that will be, i donā€™t know yet, but at least itā€™s one step further in the process.
For the colors, i was thinking along these lines, allthough i have no idea on how to get the green/yellow effect.



Guitar_Color_Idea_Yellow_Green

That last was is very nice. Iā€™d like one that looked like that but that second blue is also very nice.

I very much like the green/yellow job, although i havenā€™t got a clue on how to achieve that effect.
Maybe, since itā€™s the first, iā€™m going to go for a blue/white combo. Something along the lines of the examples. Keep it simple. Itā€™ll be challenging enough for a first time.
Next up, disassembly of the guitar. (happening this week. :relieved:)

Small update: the dissasembly happened and went quite well. Apart from some blob of solder, which i think is pure metal. It didnā€™t melt at all. So i hade to clip the cable.
The patient:




Tomorrow will be sanding, priming and painting. All in 1 day, if possible. (the spray cans i bought tell me itā€™s possible, soā€¦)
Canā€™t waitā€¦
Still havenā€™t decided on how the colours will be added, but iā€™ll get an idea before tomorrow. Iā€™ll open up a bottle of wine this evening. :smile:
A good idea never starts with a salad. :rofl:

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Great, keep us up to date @GrytPipe !

When I had a crack at spraying my bike tank, lots of lighter coats was definitely the way to go and make sure the primer is chemically compatible with the top coat if your using one (:roll_eyes: donā€™t ask :rofl:).

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Well, theyā€™re all from the same manufacturer and for the same materials. So, it should work.
Fingers crossed!

Missed the update and breakdown pics, brought back memories of butchering the Affinity !
:sunglasses:

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Small update: the first coat of primer has been sprayed, but with a few problemsā€¦ Since this is my first run (ever) with a spray can, i didnā€™t know what to expect. And it shows. Seems there are a few problems that need to be sorted.
You canā€™t really see it on the pictures, i think, but i got some sanding to do on the body. The neck went a lot better and even got itā€™s first color. (yay!!)





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Ok, another small update. Itā€™s become clear that this is not happening in one day. The primer, (allthough it says ā€œquick dryingā€) is anyting but quickly drying.
This has probably something to do with the weather conditions out here as well. Itā€™s slightly below 15Ā°C, so it doesnā€™t dry all that well.
Iā€™ll leave it where it is now and come back tomorrow for a look.

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Small update: today i found yet another way how not to paint the body of a guitar.
After sanding down the first try (see pictures above) i painted the body and the neck again. Same colour. The painting with cans is done in a garden shed. (i donā€™t have any other options, besides going outside in the garden. ).
The advantage of a shed is great airflow, which is also itā€™s greatest disadvantage.
This time around, the paint attracted things like dust and other particles floating in the air, which decided to reside in the paint itself.
Not good. :grimacing:
Oh, and another thing, if the can says ā€œquick dryingā€, believe me, itā€™s not. Not by a long shot.
Iā€™ve learned that (at least this type of paint) it needs at least a whole day and night to be handled again.
Having received some inspiration for a decoration, i tried to apply that today. (knowing that i had to start over again any way).
I wonā€™t tell too much right now, because i want it to be a surprise, but i can say this: be very very carefull with masking tape.
Leave even the slightest gap and the paint you apply will find it and it will flow into that gap.
Not what i intended at all.
So, next up, i see myself forced to go out and buy some more sanding paper, some more primer, colour and clear coating. (I havenā€™t bought any clear coating yet)
Mental note: donā€™t go with the cheap stuff, but rather buy some of the better materials. Motip is more expensive, but iā€™m guessing they have better paints and primers than what iā€™m currently using.
Next weekend: sanding it all back down to the wood, and getting a flat and clear surface, and start all over again.
Letā€™s see if i can get it right this time.

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