Yeah, I read about that option but IMO itās not a whole lot better than just staying on Win 10 past the extended service update period. Articles like this that run down those limitations (makes it sound like the chances of hardware problems increases over time) spooked me off.
Should You Install Windows 11 on an Unsupported PC? Risks, Benefits, and Alternatives
So the process I went through is something I bet is tripping up a lot of people. Turns out my PC was 100% compatible but there were some VERY core settings that needed to change. Otherwise it appeared to Windows as though my computer was incompatible. If you have no idea what your BIOS is or how to check its firmware, then the following steps can brick your computer if you donāt do them right. You might need to pay someone to do this. Itās not as simple as installing Win 11 the āunsupportedā way. But if your computer is actually compatible (but canāt tell that itās compatible) then this is a way to get a fully supported OS, at least until MS decides to brick Win 11 devices.
First step:
Check the partition type of your boot drive. Say what? Yeah, exactly. So my partition type was āMBRā (Master Boot Record). In order to change some security settings that Win 11 requires, I needed it to be GPT (no, not ChatGPT, GUI Partition Table). There are also some requirements about how those partitions are arranged on your hard drive, too. Mine was arranged just fine so I didnāt have to deal with it but I did see that for some folks this was a problem. In order to do that, I had to download the Windows Preinstallation Environment (WindowsPE) and create a bootable thumb drive with that. Basically, all it is is a DOS command prompt, taking you on a time warp to the late 1980ās/early 1990ās.
Once I booted up with the WindowsPE, I was able to run a program called MBR2GPT. Itās built into Windows (unlike WindowsPE), but to do this as cleanly as possible, itās best to run it in WindowsPE. There is a command that will let it run out of a Windows command prompt, but it does some extra stuff to make that work and I didnāt want more partitions on my hard drive. If you have everything set up correctly, it runs quickly and smoothly. But it took me awhile to get it right. LOTS of booting/rebooting/etc.
Next, check your BIOS firmware. I didnāt do this until later and it caused headaches. Do this now. BIOS is one of those things that you donāt tend to think about and my BIOS version was dated from 2017 or somesuch. More rebooting. Lots more rebooting.
Now, look up your particular motherboardās BIOS settings for enabling Secure Boot, TPM 2.0, and UEFI. For that matter, check to make sure your BIOS is compatible with all of these things. Thereās a good chance theyāre called something else or buried somewhere. On mine, I had to enable them in exactly the correct order. If I didnāt, BIOS would freeze on startup and Iād have to shut down my computer, unplug it, remove the coin cell battery on my motherboard, hold the power button to discharge any remaining charge, put it all back together, go back into BIOS and change ANY settings back. Also would be beneficial to save your BIOS settings somewhere before you start messing with anything. This process required LOTS MORE REBOOTING. Even if I got it all correct the first time, it would take a lot of rebooting.
Itās worth noting that the preinstallation checks will say youāre ready to go to install Windows 11 if you happen to have TPM 2.0 enabled and UEFI enabled, but secure boot is not enabled. As I understand it, you need to actually enable secure boot, also.
Once I got all of these steps taken care of, and my boot drive was in the GPT partition type and I had Secure Boot enabled, TPM 2.0 enabled, and UEFI enabled, I was able to download and install Windows 11. I did the automated download/install that was at the top of the list in the video above (he scrolled right on past that option). I let it run overnight. When I sat down to my PC this morning and turned it on, it had a few initialization steps to go but it started up right quick.
I only had one error crop up and it was related to the Corsair LINK 4 software and a process that it runs in the background (it basically manages my fancy PC cooler). Uninstalled that program and everything works. Aside from the most complicated setup process Iāve had to deal with since installing a Windows/Linux dual boot system, it updated with the fewest errors of any OS upgrade Iāve done.
It buys me a little more time. Time will tell if it pisses me off enough to install a Linux dual boot system anyway (before I need to replace this computer outrightā¦at which point Iāll be considering Mac, also). If I do that, I think Iāll need to change up my hard drives. Iām tapped out on how many internal drives I can install. A couple of them are old ones that I use for data storage, but Iāll need a bigger SSD if Iām going to run a dual boot. Which means replacing one of those old HDDās.