I have a CortAD810 and i want to change the strings for the first time .
( I want to do it by myself ) .
I searched the web and it says that the default strings are Daddario exp 80/20 light bronze coated .
I want to put daddario phospor bronze or 80/20 but the EXTRA LIGHT ones . Will i have a problem with the neck and rod?
Does it have to be the same gauge ?
I need some pro advise !
Hi Manos,
It would be nice to know the gauge of the factory strings but the Cort website has only so much to say:
Nope. You can use whatever gauge you want. Depending on the difference between the current strings and new ones, a tweak of the truss rod may or may not be required, but it’s a very easy adjustment to make yourself. All you need is the right sized allen key.
I thought Justin had a video in which his luthier friend goes over basic adjustments like this, but I can’t seem to find it now…
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Here’s the truss rod video.
In my limited experience though, unless you are drastically deviating from the original string gauge you may well have no issues. - Not that tweaking the truss rod is beyond doing yourself, but don’t let the thought put you off.
I have the extra light on my acoustic and it increased the playability a lot. (Although I did go the other way with the electric because I was pulling the strings out of tune, the strings have much more tension on the acoustic).
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My Cort Gold A6 came with D’Addario EXP16 Light which have been replaced by XTAPB1253. I quite like the strings that came with that guitar. Though I use different strings on my other acoustic. Both same gauge though.
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Ah yes, that’s the video I meant. 
I watched it on the old website before the revamp, so couldn’t find it again.
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Thank you all for your replies !
I decided to change to Daddario light 85/15 light gauge . ( 11-52 ) .
I am sure it cant be too much away from the factory ones .
They dont come heavy or medium by default , so that has to do the trick ! 
And about the rod … Iam a bit scared if it i guess 
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Haha, I know the feeling. When you’ve never done any adjustments yourself before, it can be a bit daunting and can feel like you might break something. But seriously, truss rod adjustment is so simple and there are numerous guides in addition to Justin’s video to ensure you get it right. Any doubts, just ask here and we’ll help you out.
Once you’ve done it once and realise there’s nothing to be scared of, you’re sorted. 
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Truss rod is just another mechanical part of the guitar like the tuning pegs.
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Once the new strings are on, hold the low E down at the first and 12th frets (you can use a pick under the A string and over the E and D strings at the 1st fret to free up a hand).
Then see how much clearance there is over the 6th fret.
If you can get any more than a business card under it you have too much relief and if you can’t get even a sheet of note paper under it you have too little relief.
Too much relief needs a tighter truss rod so put the Allen wrench in and turn clockwise (righty tighty) 1/8-1/4 turn and recheck.
Too little relief needs a looser truss rod so put the Allen wrench in and turn counter-clockwise (lefty loosy) 1/8-1/4 turn and recheck.
The strings pull the head of the guitar towards the bridge bending the neck up into relief and truss rod pushes it the other way towards back bow.
Assuming the guitar has correct relief with the current strings, heavier gauge strings will increase relief and lighter gauge strings won’t pull as much leading to lower relief or possibly back bow.
Again, assuming the relief is correct to start with, I haven’t yet found that a change of a singe gauge (like 12s to 13s or 12s to 11s) requires any truss adjustment.
Keep in mind that relief is not the same as action and you don’t adjust action with the truss rod. First set relief correctly, then adjust action at the saddle and/or nut.
To quote: “simples”
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Thank you all again !
I am 9 months on guitar now ( module 10 , grade 2 ) . So i am gonna have alot of questions down the way .
Happy playing to all of you 
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