Valve Amp - Recommendations

There is a big difference between an “attenuator” and a “load box”!

The attenuator is only meant to reduce volume, you absolutely still need to connect the tube amp to a cab to provide the load - or damage the amp!

Load boxes are super great for recording, I use them all the time. The Ox you mention is a really good one BUT super expensive and (IIRC) tied to the Apple/mac/iphone eco system.
I’ve used a “Torpedo Captor” before which is “relatively” cheap. For the last many years I’ve used a Suhr Reactive Load, which is a passive device with no fan inside… so very quiet.

With a load box you don’t need to use a cab at all, and you can play your tube amp completely silently over PC and/or headphones.

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Yes. When I was a young kid, I was so keen when I got my Marshall head that I played it without a speaker attached. You could hear the valves singing along to what I played - then it went bang! So I always plug a speaker in, even before the mains.

I would love an Ox but can’t justify the cost as it’s more than any of my amps - it would be cheaper to get a lower powered amp. I’m sure Justin has one.

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uAudio -

A Beautiful Software App

Most guitar products do digital awkwardly. They’re ugly and hard to understand. The OX software app, on the other hand, offers slick, intuitive control over all of OX’s RIG settings via Wi-Fi — letting you tweak, store and recall hundreds of presets from your iPad, Mac, or Windows 10 computer. You can then save your six favorite tones onto OX’s front-panel RIG knob for instant recall in the studio or at a gig.

TBH the OX is an amazing bit of kit but really for those with multiple heads they want to switch between and add cab sim etc onto

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Ox currently on “Sale” at Andertons. Still over 1K though…

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My home setup for when I use real amps:
Works great, but an investment for sure

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BUT - tbh, I dont use them much anymore. What I really use now is this:

Honestly - these days my recommendation to any semi-serious home player would be the Fractal FM3 (a floor board version, I have the Axe3 in this pic). Sounds exactly as good, or VERY close, as the real amps

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Most impressive, what a collection. A bit more than 2K especially when you factor in the cabs. You do have cabs?

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I have a full rig in the band rehearsal room, that’s a fourth tube head, a 2x12 cab and based around a Line6 Helix floor for effects and control.

At home, no cab.

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That seems to be an enduring story with anyone who has racks of big valve heads/4x12’s etc

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I stopped lugging a 4x12 around in the 70’s. I got a Celestion G12H 100w 8ohm speaker in the 80’s and that’s in a Marshall 1x12 cab and I can plug anything into it. As a pensioner I can’t justify any more gear but never say never…

I’ve got a loft full of discarded speakers if anyone wants to make me an offer…

I’m going to have to re-read lots of this and look at lots of these.

Impressive thread already :slight_smile:
:slight_smile:
R

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Honestly, I would go into a shop and try some out alongside a Katana before you assume that.

Cheers,

Keith

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Sounds like a bit of GAS with some “I think it will sound better”. I understand that for sure. Time for a bit of a story then… (did you just groan?) :smirk_cat:

My wife also has an electric piano, weighted keys, different tonal options, etc. It is old now, but sounds good - for being electrically created sounds. The big difference here is that a traditional piano doesn’t produce its sound out of a speaker, but out of the various places across the whole instrument that the particular string being hit resides. This cannot be reliably reproduced with a speaker at your knees as is with the electric piano we have.

Guitar is a bit simpler. from one electric to another the difference is in the signal chain, but we are still producing sound out of a speaker. Differences are not the same as the piano example.

I bought my Helix modeler expecting to improve my experience over a “practice modeler”. It did as the practice amp had more shortcomings than just its modeling capability. However, I always wondered if the models were really like the amps it was supposed to be like. I was curious if the dynamics was the same, if the distortion was modeled correctly (still wonder this), and if there are artifacts in the modeler that are not in the real amp.

I later bought a tiny solid-state amp - 5W and the size of a pedal - to have a portable amp I would be free to move around, use headphones with, take on vacation, etc. It connects to a scrapped Fender amp cabinet that is just a speaker now. The sound of this was surprising. Warm, good range on the knobs, and it wasn’t too loud if controlled properly. What I learned from this little thing was how to adjust my Helix. The adjustment is mostly in the tone equalization. I learned that not knowing what a bare amp should sound like meant that I had set up the Helix incorrectly. playing with a real amp, albeit tiny, helped me learn what to expect when setting up a modeled amp.

I also learned that volume makes a big difference. I need things to be a bit louder so I can overcome the tinitus that is strong enough to cover subtle sounds when the volume is low. If I turn up the Helix volume, it sounds a lot “better”. You may need to consider an attenuator with your purchase so you can drive the amp to a pleasant sound, but keep the volume to pleasant levels.

I strongly recommend you consider what sound you like, then go listen for that, in recordings, reviews, in-person… You will want to know what tone you like, and listen for how the amp breaks up. The break up harmonics can be harsh to mellow, depending on the design as well as what the amplifier stages are designed with (bipolar, FET, tube). Folks are happy to recommend their favorite amp, but you need to hear them to decide if it is what you like.

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I’m happy with my Monoprice 15W, currently $279 US (same unit as the Harley Benton 15W, and a Laney (Cub IIRC)) very affordable and great tone. Has a decent FX loop and spring reverb, can be run at 1W or 15W.

This amp gives me a wide range of tone and is a great pedal platform:
Ambient Night Loop

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Hi Rachel, with your healthy budget I would look at a 5W head and a 1x12 or 2x12 cab depending on how portable they are. Blackstar HT series have always been decent and now at the mkIII iteration they are very good.

There are others that would be OK but either more expensive or not as good for the price and possibly too high powered for an Apartment. 5W is plenty enough for an Apartment or small house, I can assure you!

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I have three valve amps:

  • Fender Blues Junior III w/Cannabis Rex Speaker
  • Marshall DSL40 Combo
  • Marshall SL5

Also in the “valve” mix is a 1x12 cabinet loaded with a Celestion Creamback, and a Two Notes Torpedo Captor X (load box/attenuator/et cetera).

What I like

  • The tones I get, especially if I run the Fender and a Marshall together with an ABY box.
  • The responsiveness of these amps (i.e., the way they react to picking dynamics, guitar volume knob adjustments, and so on).
  • The satisfaction of plugging a nice guitar into a classic amp.
  • The utility of a separate cabinet.
  • The SL5 is pretty great for “actual valve Marshall at home volumes”

What I Dislike

  • The DSL40 is at its best when it’s working harder (i.e. turned up a bit). The only reasonable way to do that at home is using my Captor X.
  • I wish I would’ve gone separate cabinets + heads for everything (although I probably would’ve ended up with a SuperSonic instead of the Blues Junior).
  • I wish the Fender (i.e., the Blues Junior) had a little more clean head room.

My “dislikes” are mild in intensity compared to my “likes.”

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Hi Libitina,

I had a tube amp in mind as I was reading your message. Heritage beat me to it with their videos, though. I bought a Bad Cat Black Cat model two weeks ago and am loving it. 30 watts into one 12” speaker. There are two channels that both have a volume and master volume dial, and the amp sounds great at a very reasonable volume. I use it in a very small office in my house. The amp has built-in tremolo and reverb that sound fantastic. The Black Cat is Bad Cat’s more “old school” amp from a tone standpoint. You can get chiming cleans to 70’s hard rock crunch and everything in between. I’m certain it would sound beautiful with a hollow or semi-hallow guitar. I have one on my wish list.

Enjoy your search.

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Hi Libitina,
Congratulations on your Heritage hollow body. I have a Heritage H575 and Heritage H535, both really nice guitars.

Regarding amps, I have had a Fender Hot Rod Deluxe Mk1 for decades. The heritage guitars sound particularly nice through this amp, especially the H535 which has a Seymour Duncan Jazz neck pickup and a JB in the bridge. The H575 sounds good but has the (possibly hotter) HRW pickups which need a bit of dialling in. The Hot Rod seems to accentuate some hiss when I’m playing the H575 but I think this must be an issue with wiring in the guitar, not the amp.

The Hot Rod replaced an Ampeg Superjet that I bough second hand as my first valve amp but I was never particularly comfortable with it was loud, with no master volume, had lots of background hiss and noise and seemed to lack top end somehow - but perhaps I was used to the Fender sound. The Hot Rod has really nice clean tones that I never tire of. The amp is loud and I use a Dr Watson Lion Tamer (AUD $35) in the effects loop to tame the volume as I only use it at home. People often complain about the on-board distortion with this amp, however, I simply don’t use it as pedals sound really good, either into the front of the amp, or through the effects loop.

The Hot Rod has a tendency to accentuate the bass, particularly at lower volume it can sound a bit woofy like an old piano, but there is enough range in the three band eq to correct this. The reverb sounds really nice but can be a bit over the top. One thing about these larger valve amps is the weight. Weight really has not worried me particularly because I don’t take the amp out of the house, if I did start moving it around weight could start to be a problem. Recently, I had an injury and wasn’t able to lift anything heavy for 8 weeks - I had to enlist my teenage children to move the amp around the house for me.

Given that this amp gives me beautiful Fender clean tones and wasn’t particularly expensive, as far as Fender amps go, I’m pretty happy with it. If I was to buy another amp, although that is currently unlikely as I still have children at home, I would either buy one of the many digital modelling amps, Fender Tonemaster would be a good option although these amps do not have an effects loop, or a Full Range Flat Response (FRFR) speaker and use my ancient Line 6 POD through it - mainly to avoid the weight of tube amps. Fender clean tones sound great with the Heritage guitars and it seems that digital modelling amps, like the POD or anything by Roland, do a really good job of recreating these tones so for me a digital alternative would be achievable without too much expenditure.

Anyway, a Hot Rod could be a cost effective entry into the world of valve amps, especially if the cleaner tones appeal to you. They are solid amps that take pedals well but the downside will be weight and managing the natural volume levels of these types of amps.

Enjoy your Heritage hollow body and your exploration of the world of tube amps.
Greg

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I too have a Fender Hot Rod. It’s a 40w amp and is incredibly loud; it’s a hot rodded Fender after all. If you’ve only ever used it at home you’ve probably never heard it’s full potential. I played one at an open Mike once and the owner came up to me at the end and said he didn’t know the amp could sound so good. All I did was turn it up. The song I did at the OM was “Jumping at Shadows” by Peter Green’s Fleetwood Mac which needs some oomph.

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What’s ironic about this tone obsession is that, when you upload a video on here, most will listen to it on tiny phone, iPad or laptop speakers. Makes a mockery of the whole thing.

BTW you really don’t want to be carrying a Hot Rod Deluxe upstairs; that’s why I got a Blues Junior in the end.

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