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Do I need to re-setup my guitar if I use alternative tunings?
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Is it better to use thicker strings or thinner strings for ease of play? I heard conflicting opinions. I use .11, and I didn’t try many strings. After 12th fret it’s quite difficult to play for me. Lot’s of buzz. I do have quite ok low, action. I’m also talking about acoustic guitars which I play. Also, is there different preference in gauge for smaller size guitar vs dreadnought?
Dreaming of the ultimate string set giveaway, so I have my life stash of strings 
If I change the gauge of my strings do I need to have the guitar setup again? Will it affect the intonation etc?
I have experimented a lot with strings. I do think a great deal of the choice is personal preference. You are likely better off experimenting to find your own preferences.
For myself, I prefer to play 9s on some electrics, 10s on one, 8s on another. I have an archtop now and it came with 12s but I needed to drop that to 10s.
For fingerstyle, I like a little resistance, so a stiffer string, but not as stiff as the 12s. For string bends, I really like lighter strings so I don’t need to work so hard.
I also have tested different brands, wound core shapes, and alloys. I have found each guitar tends to sound just differently enough that I have been slowly figuring out what I like per guitar.
Besides changing strings, what is the best way to keep new strings clean. there seems to be so many products out there and so many options. do I need to clean then after every use (i…e apply a product before and after I play each time)? or is a wipe down just as good. Thank you!
Maybe. Intonation should be checked and may change a bit. Relief may also change and may need adjustment. You can check these yourself so you have more time to play instead of driving to the shop! 
I’m also curious about changing string gauges. On the one hand I see people saying that all sorts of string gauges should be tried and experimented with, and that’s for both tone and feel/comfort. But I see other people warn about changing strings and the issues that can cause with the setup (especially truss rod and nut slots). Any rules of thumb about this would be helpful - I tend to just stick with the 10-46s because the whole can of worms spooks me a little.
You are asking for a rule of thumb here - I’m ok with giving mine, but remember it is general direction, not an every-time rule.
Really, it is probably up and down one gauge. You might be able to eliminate one direction if you already have a good feel for the direction you want to try. There are some hybrid gauges, like the difference between 9-42 and 9-46 that you can experiment with if you like to fine-tune your feel. I personally don’t hear a lot sound difference from gauge changes.
The tension will change with gauge change, so the relief will change. If your relief is nearly flat and you go up a gauge, good chance you will not need any truss rod change. If you go lighter, good chance you will need to adjust for the lack of tension to keep from buzzing out on the now flatter neck. If the relief is already a bit heavy, dropping one gauge is not likely to be enough to flatten the neck to buzz.
For the nut slot, going up a gauge is likely safe if you are going up from the stock string size. The risk comes when you go up enough to have the string bind in the slot. At worst, tuning will bind and you will struggle to get in tune. At worst the string can put enough pressure on a too-narrow slot to split it. The latter is unlikely, you should notice before you tighten too much. Going smaller gauge is no problem at all.
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normally you shouldn’t
Thinner strings are a bit easier to play but they usually sounds as “full” as heavier strings. Find your middleground!
that is mostly down to taste rather than solid recommendation. your playstyle and types of woods on an acoustic will matter just as much.
If you make a big jump in gauge, you just might a few tweaks and perhaps your nut slots become too narrow.
The simple dry cloth is probably the most intuitive and effective thing to use
I’m always confused about strings materials. The most common are phosphor bronze and 80/20. Is there really a significant tonal difference? Or (an average) do the different types pair up better with different guitar woods?
When changing strings, what’s the most responsible method of recycling? Are there any “mail back” services?
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Hi Craig and welcome to the community, that is a responsible question, I use D’Addario strings and they do recycle and I gain points for doing it I Repair and build guitars so I do go through a lot of strings most UK household bins recycle so yes even the nylon strings cheers HEC
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What’s the most overlooked aspect of guitar maintenance that can seriously affect tone or playability, and how do pros keep their strings feeling fresh during long recording or touring sessions?
They change them a lot. My brother used to play in beachfront bars in Panama City Beach Florida. Between the humid salt air and his sweat, a set of strings rarely lasted him more than two gigs, and sometimes he changed them daily.
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Is there any particular gauge/style of strings for each body type? For example gibson LP vs Gibson SG? Telecaster vs Stratocaster?
What is the best way of keeping strings in good shape? At the moment I just wipe them down every so often.
Is there a benefit to coil-wound versus flat wound or no?
flat wound, half round and round wound will all have a different sound to them. I find the flats to be flat sounding, but the name comes from the surface of the wrap.
the benefit is that you won’t hear string noise moving your fingers along the string. So sliding fingers and sloppy changes will be much more quiet.