My wife inherited a 1936 Gibson L7 from her dad (a rhythm guitar player in big bands from the 30’s into the 90’s)–arthritis forced retirement to its case for the last 25+ years
Here it is, in 1936, the day he picked it up ($125 + solid case $15, at lot of money in the heart of the Great Depression), almost 90 years ago…or about $1.50 per year
I bought new strings for the guitar, removed the old strings — the bridge fell to the floor (d’OH!). Ignorance is not necessarily bliss…
The frets looked like the edge of scallop shells, a cheap stand gouged out the neck, there are abundant scratches and dings, but the sound was so cool I felt it should make beautiful sounds again.
I took it to a reputable shop(?), and two months later it is back, the missing bushing replaced (not matching, but there), fully re-fretted, new “D’Addario Chrome” strings, bridge in the correct place (I won’t be making that mistake again).
This sound is so totally different from my new Yamaha FGX830C that it’s hard to believe the two instruments are both guitars. It’s got a decided “character” to its voice while the Yamaha could be from most anywhere. The rounded bridge I find easier to strum. I love the chrome wound strings–almost no squeaking, and they feel much easier on my fingers–decidedly pricier as well.
QUESTIONS
Where can I find the correct string heights for this guitar. [I’m still just playing on the first three frets but I’m looking forward to learning to use others as well]. There’s a lot more action on the lower frets. I’ve searched the web, including this site and not found reference to where the specs could be found. The low E string heights above frets are 1 @ 0.5mm, 12 @ 2.25mm, 19 @3.75. (on my new Yamaha FGSX830C they are 1.0, 2.25, 2.75mm.)
It takes so little pressure to fret, I love it, but need to retrain my fingers with the reduced pressure required. Are these values normal for “setup to std spec”?
I can see a gap at the high E string end of the bridge (the one that became intimate with the floor), where it is separated from the body of the guitar by about 1mm or so for 3/4-1". This doesn’t seem right for a “recrown bridge” that I paid for. Is that normal, does it affect the sound?
I wrapped gauze around a " String Swing Guitar Wall Mount" hanger. Do you think that will be safe for the nitrocellulose finish (specs say yes)? If not, can you suggest a good hanger so the L7 is just a stretch away from being played?
The guy at the shop said not to worry about humidity. That after 90 years of no humidity control, and the fact that it was most likely old-growth spruce, the top was really stable. Does that advice sound sound? (my new Yamaha, he said, did warrant the use of a case humidifier).
Thanks so for your knowledge, wisdom, and generosity of time.
That’s a beautiful guitar, and most likely worth an arm and a leg! Don’t forget to get it valued and get it insured!
Just looked on Reverb and seen one similar and in similar condition for $4,000!
Wow, that guitar is even older than my parents A stupid question from me: is this an acoustic or an electric guitar?
As for the action, I think what feels most comfortable to you should determine how you set it up. I guess that the neck profile (if they are different) also affects playability if the same action is used on the two guitars.
As for the bridge, is it like this one? A gap between that and the top of the body would be quite alarming for me, to be honest, from a structural aspect if nothing else.
Also, nitro finishes were discussed in a few threads:
First of all what a gorgeous beautiful old guitar that needs the best repairs money can buy, But I am confused with the photo of the guitar on the hanger showing the nut I can see clearly the binding coming away from the side of the neck beside top E has this came back from the shop like this and the nut itself has some issues im just not sure about, I would like to see a photo of the bridge just like Grytpipe suggests Cheers Hec
A stupid question from me: is this an acoustic or an electric guitar?